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Friday 14 May 2010

Kiev - Ukraine


A tale of Christianity, churches and cathedrals, of beautiful orchards and local concerts! A tale of stilettos, cobblestones and the shinning Hyatt (and possibly its wonderful breakfast) revisited. Obviously it’s Kiev!

Sophie Ibbotson:

Kiev is a city of churches. Saint Vlodomir is credited with introducing Christianity to Ukraine, and it must be said that he was rather successful: 97% of Ukrainians are baptized Christians, and the green and gold onion domes of Russian Orthodox churches pepper the skyline of every town.

Within a stone’s throw of the Hyatt in Kiev’s city centre are three important and highly elaborate religious buildings: St. Sofia’s Cathedral, St. Andrew’s Church, and St. Michael’s Monastery. St. Sofia’s is Kiev’s oldest standing church and it was named after the Hagia Sofia in Istanbul. It was completed by the middle of the 11th century and many of its original frescos and mosaics are still visible.

Bryn and I entered the cathedral complex through the main gate, under the bell tower which you can see from across the city as it is considerably taller than the surrounding buildings. The cathedral itself is set in a walled garden that feels a little like an orchard. The fruit trees were covered with white and pink blossoms, and grass and dandelion flowers grew long underfoot. Couples lazed on the wooden benches in the sunshine, small children toddled across the gravel paths, and old women stood around staring solemnly at nothing in particular. It was not a place of silent, holy reverence but a rather more human reflection on life.

One of the highlights for me was coming across an old man with a huge white beard who was sat on a bench playing a huge stringed instrument and singing. His voice was deep and slightly mournful. At his side was a small girl with her teddy bear who was completely entranced by the music. Once the song had come to an end, she looked slightly at a loss about what to do next. I knew exactly how she felt.




Jo Dew-Jones:

Steve and I are sitting in the Hyatt lobby again – no fountain here, but instead impressive lift shafts that rise up to the glass roof. It appears that a common features of Hyatts are their reflective façade, which certainly makes them striking.

We all slept well, of course, and rendezvoused at 10.40 to seek breakfast = not provided this time, but we think we may pay from our own pockets for it tomorrow anyway, as 1) we were all so looking forward to it, and 2) we won’t need lunch. Since then, Steve and I have been exploring and Sophie and Bryn are filming. We are due to meet soon.

I must comment on the Ukrainian women and their ability to walk the streets in enormous stilettos. It is an astonishing feat. Apparently it is a feature of Slavic nations such as here, Russia, Kazakhstan – fashionable, skinny ladies with immaculate make up and striking clothes. It certainly kept me distracted at dinner last night, as I watched the heeled women wending their way down the steep, winding cobbled road It looked painful, to be honest, but they bore it well, and indeed looked very ladylike and fashionable. I’m not sure I’m convinced, however, and shall be sticking to my flats.




Baboushka, baboushka*
- not in the style of Kate Bush

Baboushka, baboushka
We admire you
With your floral headscarf
And your fierce sweeping.
Woe betide the fool who crosses you.

You are the Queen of the Cobbles
Not for you these silly stilettos.
Leg warmers and long dresses
Complete your unique vogue
And defy the heat.

You gather with your baboushka friends
And with pride keep the streets clean.
Without you, we would be bereft
Of the army who keep this country spotless.
Oh baboushka, baboushka.


* "Babushka" is Russian for "grandmother" or "old woman".
Source:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Babushka

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