Final impressions

Now that the dust has settled some of our adventurers sit back and remember the journey, from the cathedral of Cologne to the amazing reception in Afghanistan.

Baharak - Afghanistan

Sophie Ibbotson:

- Arriving in Baharak -

The road between Ishkashim and Baharak is a little scary. The road regularly drops away into the swollen river below, and there are a few villages along the way whose residents have a reputation for being occasionally less than friendly. The burning of a school in Warduj had already delayed our departure once, and we were keen to keep the Isuzu moving. The anticipated four-hour drive turned out to be five and a half hours, and there was nowhere suitable to stop for a wee. By the time I reached Baharak I was bursting.

Nechem - Afghanistan

Sophie Ibbotson:

We were supposed to spend just one night in Ishkashim before travelling on to Baharak. However, in the night a school was torched in Warduj and, although this was a tribal issue rather than an anti-government attack, it was felt expedient to remain an extra day in Ishkashim to let things start to calm down. Instead, we took the time to visit Nechem, a small village half an hour’s drive away where 11 years ago Afghanaid built a water pump.

Ishkashim - Afghanistan

Sophie Ibbotson:

For the last few days we’ve been following the Tajik-Afghan border. At times Afghanistan has been so close you could almost reach out and touch it, but still it remained out of reach. That is until now.

Khorog - Tajikistan

Sophie Ibbotson:

I’m sat in the Aga Khan’s Hotel Serena in Khorog, looking out of the window across an immaculately kept lawn towards a small suspension bridge that leads to Afghanistan. The fluttering flags either side of the river identify their respective sovereignties and one or two guards lounge in the sunlight. No one is crossing today, and there is little else to do.

Dushanbe - Tajikistan

The team enjoys a brief rest at the Hyatt and many parks of Dushanbe before undertaking the many final preparations to be made before the final border crossing into Afghanistan can be undertaken!

Iskanderkul and the Aznob pass

More diesel tribulations are overcome as the team continue on to Iskanderkul lake, stopping to experience the fantastic nature before braving the harrowing mountain pass of Aznob.

Samarkand - Uzbekistan

Find out what happens when the team discovers that there is apparently no more diesel in Tashkent and how they managed to scrounge up enough to get to Samarkand, a beautiful city filled with amazing architecture and Islamic history.

Post Script - Latvia

Jo Dew-Jones:

Here it is then - the transit lounge in Riga Airport, on what is my first visit to the wonderful nation of Lativa. First impressions are highly favourable - the sun is out, and the tarmac laid out on the runway before me seems good quality indeed.

Kazakhstan to Uzbekistan

Yet another border crossing can be chalked up as the team enters Uzbekistan! Although the crossing itself was not without several challenges, including closed crossing points and broken down vehicles. Of course, this is nothing the four travelers can't overcome!

Turkestan - Kazakhstan

With flatness, wind, dodgy policemen, lack of running water, and national architecture the Kazakh adventure continues as the intrepid four travel on towards Uzbekistan.

Aral - Kazakhstan

After a voyage over roads that ought to be termed beaches, not roads, the travellers are greeted by Aral; a harbour that is no longer a harbour decorated with the rusting hulks of abandoned fishing vessels. All this and more in a tale of discovery, curious policemen and Kazakh breakfast habits.

Camping in Kazakhstan

Sophie Ibbotson:

My brother Wills is the greatest cynic I know, and he’s probably very proud of that fact. If I come home raving about something absolutely, immensely, terribly incredible that I’ve seen, shrieking in delight and flapping my arms around like an enraged ostrich, it’s likely he’ll simply smile, raise one eyebrow, and then disappear off quietly into the kitchen for a stiff gin and tonic. We love each other dearly, but it’s a wonder how our parents managed to have two such different children.

Changes

Bryn Kewley:

They say to know another language is to own another soul. I don’t know any foreign languages but learning Cyrillic rocks! It’s like being a kid again and trying to decipher some secret code, only it won’t lead to a simple message; it means you find your hotel or order a tasty meal and not something nondescript, possibly once living and invariably covered in dill.

Russia to Kazakhstan

Read some of our brave travellers final thoughts on Russia as the 4x4 and drivers make it to Kazakhstan, yet another border crossing to chalk up, despite Russian bureaucracy! Find out what happens once they start running out of petrol on their way to Aktobe.

Samara - Russia

Sophie Ibbotson:

The Russians are trying hard to promote Samara as a tourist destination. To date they’re having limited success: domestic tourists are taking a mild interest but the foreigners are nowhere to be seen. This is a real pity because, of all the Russian resorts I’ve seen, Samara is probably the nicest.

Penza - Russia

Sophie Ibbotson:

I have a soft spot for camping. Ever since predicted rain scotched my camping plans for Prague, I’ve been eager to get under the canvas. Not only is it a cheap way to spend the night but there is something very refreshing about sleeping in the great outdoors.

Moscow

The Japanese car and the English four reach Moscow where they sample the (not so) delightful Russian cuisine, marvel at the astounding architecture, not least the Kremlin, manage to catch the VE day celebrations together with half of the former USSR's military and thoroughly enjoyed the increase in Ladas.

Leaving Ukraine for Russia

The intrepid four leave for Russia: Read their concluding impressions of Ukraine and of crossing the border into Russia! Will it be a repeat of the entry into Ukraine or will it proceed smoothly? Read on to find out!

Kiev - Ukraine

A tale of Christianity, churches and cathedrals, of beautiful orchards and local concerts! A tale of stilettos, cobblestones and the shinning Hyatt (and possibly its wonderful breakfast) revisited. Obviously it’s Kiev!

The hazards of travelling

Travelling halfway across the world in a 4X4 obviously presents no real problem to our intrepid four but what about catching some kip?

Lviv continued - The Resistance

“Slava Ukraini” (Glory to Ukraine) “Geroyam slava” (Glory to its heroes).

Lviv - Ukraine

Traffic jams and border-crossing troubles are solved with the aid of the sole English speaking border official. Machine-gun toting heavies, bunkers and honey vodka. It can only be Ukraine!

"A tiny minority even in their own quarter"

Of nuns, tea houses and Krakow's fascinating history...

Krakow

One of the best hostels in the world and discovering Krakow’s old town, tea houses and stuffed dumplings.

Prague Continued

Worsening roads and jaywalking – cause for concern in Czech Republic

Prague

Introducing Bryn Kewley.

I had a storming run this morning! Got a little lost but in doing so found a parade ground, stumbled across canoeists navigating a slalom course, helped a man push what I assume was his moped through the front door of his house and took a second to watch Prague grow, as deep foundations for a new building were laid.

Dresden Continued

In Dresden by Jo Dew-Jones

In Dresden
Wir haben die Vietnamisische essen gegessen
Und haben das Bier und das The und die Kirsch* getrunken
Und haben das Neustadt un has Altstadt gesuchen
Und haben in einen Hostel geschlafen.
Das war gut. Ja.

Dresden – 476 km travelled today

Breakfast - glorious Hyatt breakfast! Today Germany was crossed, nature beheld and Dresden discovered! Oh and there were trees. Lots of trees.

525 Km travelled so far - The journey begins!

The journey begins…
Read three tales of twisting turns and grand adventure, hear of the amazing manoeuvring skills of one Japanese-made Isuzu as it does a 180 and heads back to London for the missing documents, savour the odes to Belgium men’s rooms and discover the beauty of the Cologne cathedral!